Aug 29, 2015

The Piano Artistry of Jonathan Edwards


Conversation with a friend reminded me of "The Piano Artistry of Jonathan Edwards," an album long forgotten. The Wikipedia article provides details and links.

Released in 1957, it featured Jo Stafford, then a popular singer, and her husband Paul Weston on piano, the two pretending to be Jonathan and Darlene Edwards. 

A high-school friend of mine, Wylie Crawford, had it, and our family got a copy. Check out the album cover. There's a clue there.

There are two ways to enjoy their music. One is with people who who can recognize the difference between on-key and off-key, between on-temp and off-tempo. Every time they the Edwards go off, you'll groan in agony and then laugh.  The other is with people who can't tell the difference. Every time the Edwards go off you'll groan in agony and then laugh and then your friends will look at you mystified and that will set you off again. 

At least it did for us.

My favorites:
Nola
Three Coins in a Fountainhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJkpz520Xdw

It's Magic (part of a playlist)


Aug 28, 2015

Learning to learn: Gain without pain

This post is precipitated by one of the least pleasant experiences of my life and one of the more pleasant.

The bad: a nearly one month period (so far) of intermittent and occasionally extreme pain, that has sent me to the emergency room twice, and scurrying to other practitioners before and between those visits.

The good, and the proximate cause of this post: is this, an essay on "Learning to Learn" by Moshe Feldenkrais.

"Learning to Learn."

It's important.

So pay intention.  (Comment directed at me, but you can pay attention, too.)

No. Invest attention. It will pay off.

What drove me to find this essay was the condition of my body, the effectiveness on my condition of even the tiny bit of Feldenkrais practice that I had learned.

I started with enormous pain in my right hip and lesser pain in my knee and miscellaneous pains elsewhere. I lay down on a yoga mat. I made small motions with my head and observed how even the tiniest head-motion changed my pain, sometimes quite dramatically. After a doing this for a while I used a self massage tool (Body Back Buddy, here) , which I've used previously to reduce chronic neck and back pain. But this time instead of "breaking down the pain" I used it gently, moving and pressing other parts of my body, again observing how even the lightest touch changed the pain in my knee and hip. After another fifteen minutes of this, I rose, moved around gingerly, and found that my pain continued to remain abated.

Mostly gone.

This was, as they say, serious shit.

So I went googling for a better understanding, and found the above-referenced essay. It so resonated with my earlier experience with Feldenkrais, with this experience, and with experiences unrelated to the physical domain that I decided to write about it. My goals were to deepen my own understanding, and to test Feldenkrais theory by applying it to writing.

Success on both counts.

Here are some of the things that he says in the essay, along with my comments.
Time is the most important means of learning.
You take the time to learn. You don't put pressure on yourself to learn. That's the opposite of what I do much of the time. He explains more about why this is so important.
Fast action at the beginning of learning is synonymous with strain and confusion which, together, make learning an unpleasant exertion.
This explains many of self-improvement failures. Maybe most. Maybe all. I'm enormously motivated to learn; that drives me into and forward through unpleasantness. As time passes my motivation wanes, and the felt result of the unpleasantness grows. Some research on the measurement of pain neatly quantifies this (article here, original paper here). Pain is measure in units called "dols." 8 dols is the pain produced by a second degree burn.
The study's authors concluded that 8 dols of pain equaled four successive two dol experiences
So a chronic condition of "strain and confusion" in my writing makes it an "unpleasant exertion" that might be measured in millidoles, and will pile up sufficiently to become multidole pain strong enough overcome my self-generated motivation.

Which may be why I have so long relied on sources of external, and unpleasant motivation to keep me moving forward. I do this even on things that I self-determinedly desire to do. I go as fast as I can. I pressure myself as much as I can. And that produces short-term success and longer term failure. I've been long-term successful in some of these same areas by letting the pain wear off and going back for more. But now I see that's not efficient.
Do not "try" to do well
...Internal conviction of essential inadequacy is at the root of the urge to try as hard as one can, even when learning. 
This line really nailed it. It's led to this post. It nicely summarized the feeling that I have had as I "try" to write. I make greater and greater effort, all the time adding to my "conviction of essential inadequacy" and increasing the amount of "strain, confusion, and unpleasant exertion" that I feel.

In other words I write (which I love to do) until I hate it. The milidols of small pains build until whatever pleasure I might feel is buried under them. And then I quit.

So how do you avoid this?
Efficient movement or performance of any sort is achieved by weeding out, and eliminating, parasitic superfluous exertion. The superfluous is as bad as the insufficient, only it costs more. [Emphasis mine]
That's some of what's wrong with my writing. I write fast, and endlessly correct, and post when my dissatisfaction at not posting exceeds the discomfort I feel about posting. What a solution!

But there's another way.
When one becomes familiar with an act, speed increases spontaneously, and so does power. This is not so obvious as it is correct. [Emphasis mine]

I love that line. "This is not so obvious as it is correct."
Look for the pleasant sensation [Emphasis in the original]
So that's what I'm doing now.  Writing more slowly, and looking for the pleasant sensation, and realizing that unpleasant feelings are symptoms, not of my "essential inadequacy," but rather that I'm forcing myself to go faster than comfort requires.
You will get to know new skills as a reward for your attention. You will feel you deserve your acquired skill, and that will add satisfaction to the pleasurable sensation.
Lovely. Eloquent. True.

And here is Moshe Feldenkrais moving from the domain for which he is renowned to one of the domains that I care much about:
Only when we have learned to write fluently and pleasurably can we write as fast as we wish, or more beautifully. But "trying" to write faster makes the writing illegible and ugly. Learn to do well, but do not try. The countenance of trying hard betrays the inner conviction of being unable or of not being good enough.

That goes on my wall.

He wrote this for me.

Maybe for others. Certainly for others. But this is a message, from the grave, for me.

Learn to write fluently and pleasurably.
Do not try to do "nicely"
A performance is nice to watch when the person applies himself harmoniously. This means that no part of him is being directed to anything else but the job at the hand. Intent to do nicely when learning introduces disharmony. Some of the attention is misdirected, which introduces self-consciousness instead of awareness. Each and all the parts of ourself should cooperate to the final achievement only to the extent that it is useful. An act becomes nice when we do nothing but the act. Everything we do over and above that, or short of it, destroys harmony. [Emphasis in body, mine]

Self-consciousness instead of awareness.

And this:
We usually learn the hard way. We are taught that trying hard is a virtue in life, and we are misled into believing that trying hard is also a virtue when learning. 
I've always taken "trying hard" as one of the greatest virtues. Now I'm rethinking this. The image I hold is Kaya, who does not seem to try hard. Instead she seems to pick her own pace, working slowly, continuously, comfortably and pleasurably to master skill after skill.
Learning takes place through our nervous system, which is so structured as to detect and select, from among our trials and errors, the more effective trial. We thus gradually eliminate the aimless movements until we find a sufficient body of correct and purposeful components of our final effort. These must be right in timing and direction at the same instant. In short, we gradually learn to know what is the better move. 
Sounds like Kaya to me. As least as seen from the outside.
...the smaller the exertion, the finer the increment or decrement that we can distinguish ...The lighter the effort we make, the faster is our learning of any skill; and the level of perfection we can attain goes hand in hand with the finesse we obtain. We stop improving when we sense no difference in the effort made or in the movement.
This is at the heart of Feldenkrais' method. Light effort so that we can distinguish wrong moves from correct ones. Plenty of time to see the differences. Only then can we continue to improve. The very opposite of what I do!

Learning and life are not the same thing.
In the course of our lives, we may be called upon to make enormous efforts sometimes beyond what we believe we can produce. There are situations in which we must pay no heed to what the enormous effort entails. We often have to sacrifice our health, the wholeness of our limbs and body...
To the extent that I've succeeded in life it's often been by making "enormous efforts" and I've paid "no attention to what the enormous effort entails."

But life is different now. And it was actually different than I perceived it then. But that time is past. Let's talk about now. And about writing.

I'm not a writer on deadline. My job does not depend on my writing well. And even if it did, there would be times when I have to take the hit, suffer through the unpleasantness and strain and get 'er done. But that's not now. Now is for learning and for "looking for the pleasant sensation."
Learning must be slow an varied in effort until the parasitic efforts are weeded out; then we have little difficulty in acting fast, and powerfully.
And why learn to do things efficiently? Because:
...energy cannot be destroyed; it can only be transformed into movement, or into another form of energy. What, then, happens to the energy that is not transformed into movement? It is, obviously, not lost, but remains somewhere in the body. Indeed, it is transformed into heat through the wear and tear of the muscles (torn muscles, muscle catarrh) and of the ligaments and the interarticular surfaces of our joints and vertebrae.
So long as we are very young, the healing and recovery powers of our bodies are sufficient to repair the damage caused by inefficient efforts, but they do so at the expense of our heart and the cleansing mechanisms of our organism.
If we have not learned efficient action, we are in for aches and pains and for a growing inability to do what we would like to do. 
 Aches and pains. I know you well.

And on concentration, he says:
Do not concentrate if concentration means to you directing your attention to one particular important point to the utmost of your ability. This is a particular kind of concentration, useful as an exercise, but rarely in normal occupation and skills.
And this about how we've mis-learned to learn:
We are so drilled or wired-in by prevailing educational methods that when we know what is required of us, we go all-out to achieve it, for fear of loss of face, regardless of what it costs us to do so. We have it instilled in our system that we must not be the worst of the lot. We will bite our lips, hold our breath, and screw up our straining self in an ugly way in order to achieve something if we have no clear idea of how to mobilize ourselves for that task. The result is excessive effort, harmful strain, and ugly performance.
And this:
Do a little less than you can
By doing a little less than you really can, you will attain a higher performance than the one you can now conceive. Do a little less than your utmost while learning. You are thereby pushing your possible record to a higher setting. 
Now I think I might need to apologize to my kids for always asking them "Did you do your best?" Now I might say: "Did you do nearly your best, but just far enough from your best that you could continue to learn to do better?"

Ahh well, we learn. Sometimes too late for some things. But never too late for everything.

I encourage you to read the entire article, again, here. It's worthwhile.

Meanwhile I've just written about the easiest post I've ever written.

Jun 17, 2015

Another chapter begins

Or maybe it's a bunch of chapters. It should be. I hope it is.

A lot has happened since I started my vacation from blogging. Well, it was more like AWOL, but I'm back, inspired by hanging out in Denny's on Congress Street in Portland, 4AM, sitting in the back corner, my computer plugged into an extension cord that the manager kindly provided for me, loud music in the background and an Original Grand Slam (two eggs, two pancakes, two strips of bacon, two links of sausage) in front of me fueling this morning's episode.

Yes! A lot has happened. And I hope to get it all down, backdated to provide a sense of time and history as well as to deliver the facts.

My head is full of Moments. I captured a few, too damned few, on our  trip to Sienna for Daniel and Dana's wedding. But most of them are only in my head. They's in full color. Large as life, but I can't show them to anyone. And that's a pisser, I really want to share them. So in no special order here's a recitation of some of the things that I'd like to write about: (and when I do, I'll update this post with links). Here goes:


Hanging out with the Borg
The plan and the result
T-Mobile everywhere
Quantum versus the QM 2
If this is Friday, it must be Newark
We're on a boat
T-shirt regrets
Ready Player 1
Altered Carbon
Fight night!
Breakfast in the 270, first and last time
Home in the Windjammer
Things I wish I knew before Quantum
Behind the scenes
Quantum Power
Cartagena, Spain I
Mallorca
Climbing wall
Tired of eating!
The Barcelo Sants
Barcelona private tour
Sagrida Familia
Scouting the station
Train to Narbonne
Hotel du Midi
Carcasonne
Good bye little credit card!
Dinner in Narbonne
Driving across France
Paul vs McDonalds
The car return in Nice
No train!
What God could do if She had money: the Cote d'Azure and Monaco
McGuyver's emergency air conditioner
Because it's a Fiat!
Driving through Italy
Old friends in old Sienna
Anyone have a car seat?
My friends the kittens
Old friends at the villa
Wine tour
The villa: what you can do with a few hundred years
The sculpture garden, museum or whatever
Sienna's best jokes
The wedding
Nicest compliment in years
Off to Verona
Shopping in Verona
Train to Berlin
Old friends in new Berlin
Berlin to Szczecin
Szczecin hospitality
Szczecin tour
Szczecin to Berlin
Berlin to London
Uber in London
London images
London to Southampton
Taxi troubles
The QM2
Captain John Cleese
Brooklyn

Whew! That's going to take a while, assuming I carry through.








May 11, 2015

Quantum Power!

Quantum of the Seas isn't just a floating resort hotel, it's a moveable one. Ignoring all the power needed to run the hotel: to light the rooms and commons areas, cook the food, run the elevators, and spin the slot machines, it takes a lot of power to move the ship.
According to this Wikipedia article, Quantum has two "20.5-megawatt ABB Azipod XO propulsion units." Azipod XO propulsion units are gigantic electric motors (see here). The picture shows a much smaller unit, about 1/10 the size of Quantum's main units.
How much power is 20.5 megawatts? YMMV but here’s what this site has to say. The South uses much more electricity than the North--because of air conditioning--and of course life style is a factor. And so is the extent to which a power source runs at capacity. Bottom line: 
Going through the math, a 1,000 megawatt rated coal generator with a 75 percent capacity factor generates about 6.6 billion kWhs in a year, equivalent to the amount of power consumed by about 900,000 homes in the Northeast but only 460,000 homes in the South.
So let’s divide by 1,000 and round: a megawatt looks like between 50 and 100 homes. Each of Quantum’s propulsion units could take care of 20 times that: 1000 to 2000 homes. Double that for two units. 
And then there are the bow thrusters, used for maneuvering. Each puts out 3,500 kW, or 3.5 mW and makes them about the size of the Azipod in the picture. That's 14mW more for the four. 
Lots of power.

Cartagena, Spain

Today is Cartagena, and there’s a good chance I'm not going to get off the boat. Not because there's anything wrong. Because I want to write.
Cartagena has a natural harbor, with a narrow entrance and a channel that makes several turns. Here’s a Google map of the entrance to the harbor. If I were working at a more responsive network I’d try to overlay this with an image of our ship so you can be amazed by the ship’s ability to navigate through the passage.  For now you'll have to use a little imagination. But not too much.

Quantum is not a small ship; it’s a giant floating apartment house, 347m by 50m. Remember, 100m is about a football field. Despite its size it’s highly maneuverable, and it navigated through the channel without needing a tug for assistance and arrived just about on schedule. Yay captain Ban.

Quantum's main propulsion system is a pair of huge electric motors with power delivered, if I remember rightly, through slip joints, whatever they are. Whatever the mechanism, it lets the motors rotate through nearly 360 degrees, which makes it possible for them to pull the boat (normal configuration) or push it sideways. And of course it can pull the boat backward.

Quantum also has four bow thrusters, smaller electric motors, that give the captain greater ability to maneuver.
The narrow parts of the channel look to be around 250m wide on the map. The ship is 50m wide. That gives about 100m on each side, according to my calculations, but it sure seemed like less as I watched from decks 14 and 15.
At the top of the map image you can see the wharf where quantum docked. To get there Quantum entered at Punta de San Antonio then had to swing its way past Muella de la Curia, then pivot to parallel the wharf. It’s a tricky ride.
One of our waiters told me that when a ship like ours comes into harbor a harbor pilot comes out in a launch, goes to the bridge, and advises the ship’s crew rather than taking control. That makes sense since an error is likely to cause the ship more harm than the harbor. And because the propulsion and control systems of different ships must be quite different. (Side note: in the Suez Canal it appears that piloting is done by local personnel, who are trained using simulators, to use lots of different ship systems. But for them it's mostly a straight run. Not here.)
Running bow thrusters and main engines at right angles to the boat, we heave up silt from the harbor bottom and push closer to the wharf. The ships throws out a blue line with a loop on the end. Someone on the wharf throws a grappling hook on an orange line, grabs the ship’s line and pulls it in. The ship feeds two giant hawsers attached to the ship's line. The men on shore float the hawsers to a bollard, the big iron posts to which the ship will be moored. They haul the hawsers up, one at a time and drop them over the bollard. Then winches on the ship go into action and tighten the hawsers and settle the ship against the wharf. The same thing happens at the other end of the ship.
Everything goes smoothly. We're due in at 10:00 AM, and we're tied up and ready to debark at 10:15. Nice job, captain Ban.

May 3, 2015

We're on a boat!

Yes, as the song says, we're on a boat. Though not without some difficulty. Here's the story.

We had made their way to the Doubletree Hotel in Newark, returned their car and were all set to head to the Quantum of the Seas. I'd been checking Uber regularly to make sure we wouldn't have to wait too long for a car. What I didn't take into account was this: that traffic in New Jersey congested, and that the Uber driver who picked me up might not be familiar to the area. This last thought was so non-obvious that I didn't think of it until I started writing this. But in retrospect it's obvious. We're not far from Newark Airport. There's going to be a steady flow of drivers from Manhattan, and other non-local places dropping people at the airport. And one of them is most likely to get the call. He wouldn't know the area. If the GPS gave him wrong directions he wouldn't know it. And if he missed a turn, he wouldn't realize it, until it was too late.

Whether my theory on why this is likely is right or wrong, the fact is: that happened. As planned and expected we got a driver pretty quickly. I called him to make sure he knew where we were--which was a good thing because he missed the hotel first time around, but maybe because I moved the pin. Dunno. Uber seemed to show him circling around before he got there.

Anyway the car arrived. As always with Uber it was a spotless car of recent vintage. We got in and we took off. I remembered that there was a trick getting on the road in the first place, and once we'd done that, I let him take over. What I now realize is that I ought to have tracked our progress all the way with Maps or Waze. Instead, I sat back and enjoyed the ride. Until it stopped being enjoyable.

It seemed at first we were going the same way we'd gone the previous night, but pretty soon it seemed different. That's when I pulled out my phone and discovered we were way off course--further away in time and space than we had been at the Doubletree. Bad! Bad! Bad!

I had him pull off and used Waze to plot a course back and looked at Google Maps to confirm it. Also a semi-bad idea. They agreed on the amount of time needed. They disagreed on how to get back. Waze seemed to want to take us overland. Maps seemed to want to turn us around and head back into the stop-and-go traffic we'd seen going in the opposite direction. I decided to go overland.

There were lots of twists and turns, and opportunities to go the wrong way, but I managed to pick the right road, or almost the right one, when the road was ambiguous. We got to the Cruise Port right on time, but only because I'd planned things so that we'd get there a hour early.

I had wanted to take our suitcases on board with us--they were roll-ons--but the baggage handler who called us out of traffic said we couldn't; that we had to check the bags with her. Which we did, but as we walked closer to the entry I could see that there were other people rolling their bags on board. Maybe she was telling the truth. Maybe she gets paid by the bag. Or maybe she wanted the tip that I reflexively gave her for possibly misguiding me.

Whatever. We got through baggage and body scanners. We'd previously registered online, and as part of the registration process we'd uploaded pictures of ourselves and our passport numbers, then printed out a "Set Sail Pass." A young lady with an iPad met us, scanned the barcode on our Set Sail Passes, and up popped our pictures. She scanned our passports using the iPad as well, asked us some fairly stupid questions: "Have you been to Africa in the past three months?" "No." (And if I had, maybe I'd want to lie about it because people are so fucking paranoid!)  "Do you have a cold?" "No." (And what would you do if I had one? Deny me boarding.). Then my favorite: "Are you sure?" This is a question designed to trip up people who lie the first time and who become so guilty when asked a second time that they completely cave in. "Aaargh! You got me. I do have a cold. And I've spent the last year in Africa. Working in an Ebola hospital. And I'm testing a new vaccine. And, yes, yes, I let myself be infected, to test its efficacy."

Well, she didn't trick me. We continued on to a desk where our Set Sail Passes were again scanned, and the results of the first were confirmed, but not including another "Are you sure you aren't sick?" check. The whole process was very smooth,

We'd been warned that our rooms might not be ready--after all the boat had gotten in just six hours before--but the onboard elves had done their job efficiently and our rooms were clean, made up and ready for us, although set up for a queen, not twins as we had requested. No problem, we were told. And it was no problem. Our bags took a little time, but we had them before dinner.

I registered for Internet access, and once things were settled I checked my email which included a bill from Uber. It was for more than $80.00 instead of the $30-ish I had expected. But conveniently it showed a track of the route that the driver had taken: past the turn-off for the port we'd taken the other night, and then all around Robin Hood's famous barn, and finally overland back the port.

It wasn't obvious how to complain, but that's OK. I googled and got the procedure, followed it, and sent in a polite request questioning the charges. On Monday, when the support center came on line, I got an acknowledgement and a follow-up question. And on Wednesday or Thursday I got a refund: they dialed the cost back to what it should have been if the driver had taken the right course. Yay Uber!

Internet cost me a little over $200 for 11 days of 0.23Mbps download speed. Once they've got you on the boat, they've got you. For example, their price for movies on demand: $12.00 a view. But they make up for these extortionate costs by serving amazingly good food, in VAST quantities, delivering extraordinarily fine and friendly service everywhere, having lots of high quality entertainment, and providing lots of ways to amuse yourself for free.

More about this in later posts.

May 1, 2015

If this is Friday, it must be Newark

Here we are on the first day of our Journey To Siena for Dana and Daniel's wedding. So far it's gone better than expected, but that's because I carefully set my expectations quite low. So I easily vastly exceeded them. Pessimism can be an effective strategy, I learned from Dan O'Dowd. When you're a pessimist, either things go badly, and you feel good for being right for your low expectations, or they go well, and you're happy about a good outcome. So I set out fully expecting to have something major go wrong. I was disappointed, happily.

On the positive side: the car was ready on time. I got into no accidents--well, no major ones; more on that later. I didn't get a speeding ticket. The hotel was where it was supposed to be, our rooms were clean; the beds comfortable; dinner was good. Nothing happened that made me stressed. No one got sick and nobody died. Some of these things were expected, but not all. For example, I expected stress; I did not expect death.

On the bad side: I didn't adjust my mirror and some guy had to honk at me when I started to change lanes without seeing him. Check: adjust mirrors. I carefully backed out of parking space, very carefully watching a car that was parked behind me and just to the left of my car (yes!) and missed seeing the car that was parked behind me and just to the right. The driver of that care might have been blowing her horn, but the windows were down and I was too busy (carefully) watching the car to the left to hear the horn it it had been a horn. Bump! I stopped the car, and the driver of the other car came up. "What were you thinking?" she asked angrily. Or something. "Apparently I'm an idiot," I explained. We went back to assess the damage. There might have been a scratch on her bumper due to my car, but there were already several scratches and it was hard to tell which one, if any, might have been mine. Her male companion, much more relaxed than she was said: "It's all good. No problem." I said thanks and we were on our way.

I had been using Waze to navigate, but during the stop and bump episode my phone ran out. So while I recharged it, Peggy her iPhone app to guide us. And guide us it did, right into 4 mile-per-hour traffic jam. By that time my phone had acquired enough charge to reboot, and Waze guided us around the jam, and pretty soon we were flying again. With my phone plugged in to charge as we went.

Then we hit the tangle that is New York and collided with physics. Waze apparently consumed electrons faster than my charging cord supplied them, and after a while my phone crashed again. Peg to the rescue, again! We navigated our way through the New York side tangle of roads, got across the GW bridge to hit the Jersey tangle. And that's where the next bad thing happened. I made a wrong turn. We recovered, and found ourselves facing a toll plaza, with the map app telling us to keep left. Which would have been the right thing to do if I'd had my EZ-pass. But I didn't. And I found myself in a high-speed EZ-pass lanes with no way to get to a take-a-ticket cash lane. So I went through without getting a ticket. Which meant that when we got to the toll plaza at our exit, I had to pay the maximum toll: north of $10.00. In the grand scheme of things, it's nothing.

A few more twists and turns and we found our way to our hotel where, as I said, everything was great. Except, fortunately, for a very annoying noise coming from the fan in our room. Fortunately? Yes.

I went to the desk and the person there, Musa, said they'd sent maintenance to fix it. Right. Eventually, I thought. But maintenance showed up faster than expected, and the guy, a very nice fellow from Ghana, took care of it right away. I went back to the front desk to thank Musa for excellent support, and to ask if breakfast was covered in our reservation; he said it was not, but comped us (and Peg) breakfast for our inconvenience. So, yay! And that's why the annoying fan noise was fortunate.

We had dinner in the hotel, and then took a drive through the tangle of New Jersey roads to the Cape Liberty Cruise port, making sure I got tickets before getting on the short tollway segments to the port and returning. Yay for learning from experience.

The Quantum of the Seas was not yet in port, and that was expected because I'd done my research before we headed over there. It was returning from a weekish-long cruise to the Caribbean, and I had found it would get in at 7:00 AM. Which makes sense. It makes no money sitting at dock, so it was in at 7:00 AM and out at 5:00 with 3500 passengers off, with all their waste and garbage; and another 3500 on, with all that would be needed to sustain them for ten days.

We got back to the hotel and now it was time to drop off the car, which was uneventful except for two things. One: Google maps had the wrong location for the drop off. Two: I had forgotten to fill the car with gas. So I searched for a nearby gas station and ended up getting routed around and around through a tangle of roads, finally seeing a toll both ahead, (What!!!) and a sign that said: last exit before toll. Which you better believe I took, only to find myself going along a winding road that led...back to the hotel. Turns out there is a gas station at the airport. I'd driven right past it the first time around and found it the second.

Round two was success. I had my gas pumped by another guy from Ghana. And found the drop-off. I took the shuttle back to the hotel, and after evening ablutions, the day was gone. No serious accidents. No upset (even when wandering all over the Newark area at night).

But tomorrow is another day. I hope things go well, but I'm not counting on it.

Pages